I decided to take a day off work last week, which lifted my spirits, but then I had to face the fact that summer's almost over and my daughter's heading back to college—which she did on Sunday. My lone out-of-town trip was to Missouri to visit my brother in St. Louis, and travel to Boonville (Boooooonville!) and Arrow Rock to see cousins. What a thrill to walk in late afternoon and hear the roar of cicadas in the vast canopy of trees overhead. It reminded me of childhood summers, when the roar was deafening. My brother and I'd collect the cicadas' empty casings and march them around like soldiers before crushing them between our fingers. Their protruding blank shell eyes always gave me the willies.
While visiting Arrow Rock, I asked my cousin about this ancient stone work on the side of the road. He said it was a slave gutter— that is, a gutter made by slaves.
When I heard that word, "slave gutter," however, my mind conjured up all sorts of imagines: slaves being swept asunder in rain filled gutters, made to walk on hands and knees in the streets, digging trenches and laying heavy stones while dogs ripped at their heels. Although Missouri is considered Midwestern, it was a border state like Kentucky, and like Kentucky, half the population defended its right to own slaves. During the Civil War, as in KY, brothers fought brothers, dividing families between Confederate and Union right up to the grave. Boon's Lick, says an Arrow Rock historical plaque, is across the river (which, oddly, changed courses and is no longer there), where Daniel Boone's sons boiled salt in 1806 and expanded westward along the Sante Fe Trail.
After Arrow Rock, I went canoeing with my brother and his girlfriend Christine on the Meramec River, and I realized, while floating somewhere between St. Louis and the Ozarks, how important water is to one's sense of summer. Without it, there's none—only sweat and dry land. Water is summer, summer is water. We need it to survive the heat, and its healing powers distract us from our woes. Water heals, water calms. The word "Maya" derives from the Sanskrit word meaning water, alluding to the illusory nature of our world.
Christine floating on the Meramec River
(photo credit of river and cave: David Hildebrand)
(photo credit of river and cave: David Hildebrand)
At one point, we stopped to explore a cave, of which there are many along the Meramec, but it was closed.
A sign at the entrance warned of the spread of a disease called white-nose syndrome, which has decimated over a million cave-dwelling bats from New York to Oklahoma since 2006.
The culprit, a white fungus, attaches itself to hibernating bats, agitating them and causing them to wake early. Without food, they use up their energy supplies and die. An editorial in the NY Times reports that in two decades we may see the extinction of the little brown bat. "According to bat conservation experts," the article reads, "this is 'the most precipitous decline of North American wildlife in recorded history....'"
Coincidentally, or maybe not so, bats in Russia are also being threatened as a result of global warming. Moscow's summer fires burned tens of thousands of hectares of protected forests, home to more than 30 species of migratory bats. Scientist warn that bats are our canaries in the coalmine—our environmental health depends on these flying mammals (unbelievably, bats eat up to 5000 mosquitoes a day!). EUROBATS, an org that promotes bat conservation, warns of the dangers to bat populations worldwide and urges countries to take urgent action. They're calling 2011 "The Year of the Bat!"
We paddled back in the late afternoon with bats on our mind, and the hope of getting a beer— given the 114 degree heat index— at the little Mexican cafe down the road.
A flying fox (a type of fruit bat)
Oh, what a beautiful face!
(photo credit: www.auswildlife.com)
Well, Charlotte, you made up for not giving us posts for a while by giving us SUCH a good one. Really several stories rolled into one. So sad about the bats. They still don't know much about white-nose (where it originated, why and how it is spreading, etc.), so containing it will be a huge challenge. The loss of bats will have far-reaching effects, too, including on agriculture as they eat a lot of agricultural pests as well as mosquitoes.
ReplyDeleteLove your account of end-of-summer, Missouri, water (wish I cd float down a river, but the Hudson just isn't that appealing off the coast of Manhattan), and "slave gutters."
glad to be back in the blogosphere, also seeing outwalkingthedog back online. we have our one-year blogging anniversary coming up.....(will we make it??)
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